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Trend Magazine Online™
Travel Review July 2017
Savannah, Georgia

By Jay Whipple

Trend Magazine Online™

Eclectic!


Savannah Georgia Review Pic!I have driven past the Savannah exit sign off I-95 on numerous trips to/from Miami since the late 1970's and after joining the U.S. Army and being stationed at Ft. Bragg, NC; which is just west of Fayetteville. I have on at least three occasions actually stopped through very briefly twice, and the third to spend the night with relatives of my former Army buddy 1LT Anthony Jackson (May he Rest in Peace). That night was one to remember because we were invited to my first -- and only -- Low Country Boil. If you have yet to experience one, and you love seafood, you should immediately add it to your bucket list.

Savannah Georgia Review Pic!The Boil consists of getting one of those 30-gallon or so steel trash cans (without trash of course), fill it water, and add all types of seafood and sides like crabs, lobsters, shrimp, crawdads, oysters, clams; corn-on-the-cob, new potatoes, etc...The entire can is brought to a boil and when the host determines that all the goodies are fully cooked they drain the water and then dump everything onto a table covered with heavy paper to keep the foods from getting soggy. You then stand around the table and help yourself to whatever delightful item your heart so desires until there is no more to be consumed. It is customary to use your hands (natural forks) to pick and eat your pleasure while washing it down with your favorite beverage -- like beer.

Savannah Georgia Review Pic!I was not privy to a Savannah Low Country Boil on this trip but did get to spend four days and three nights this time around. I was able to get a great hotel deal by using the travel portal associated with Trend Magazine Onlinetm. By searching it I located a room at the Sleep Inn just off I-95 which was great because I was already traveling that route from South Florida. My hotel was conveniently located within walking distance of restaurants, fuel, and quick shops, as well as easy access to highways leading into Downtown Savannah. I arrived around 10 PM and began the process of planning my two day exploration shortly after check in at my hotel.

Savannah Georgia Review Pic!I love it when a hotel is visitor friendly by providing a kiosk chock full of area attractions brochures. I helped myself to several that got my interest to include one advertising the Freedom Trails Tour by Mr. Johnnie Brown who has been at it for over 20 years; according to the brochure. As one in the business I know the value derived from a tour company with a long established track record as compared to one of the newer ones, as such, I typically choose experience over popularity. In addition, a good local tour is an excellent way of learning a lot in a very short period of time and it helps you effectively plan the remainder of your trip.

Savannah Georgia Review Pic!I chose to attend the last tour of the day which was at 3 PM and departing from the Savannah Visitor Center located at 301 Martin Luther King, Jr. Boulevard in Downtown. Parking was a nightmare as I had to drive around for several minutes before finding a spot open in the garage of a nearby hotel. I had to double time back over to the visitor center in order to catch the last tour of the day. Fortunately, the previous tour was delayed several minutes giving me time to catch my breath. On our 2-hour excursion I learned that the city served as a military buffer during the Civil War and that from 1832-1838 the railroad was a big deal with Charleston, SC.


Savannah Georgia Review Pic!Our guide Johnny stated that there were no fires during that war like Atlanta, GA, or Richmond, VA; but there were three major fires in 1796, 1820, and 1889, and that Yellow Fever hit in about 1853 with a lot of those folks being buried in the Colonial Cemetery which was for "whites only." In 1893, Johnny said that the city was crippled by a major hurricane that killed more than 2,000 people and that today's population is 58% Black. He also explained the connection between their beautiful iconic Moss trees and bed bugs. He said that the moss -- containing bugs -- was used to stuff mattresses. Hence the saying "Sleep tight and don't let the bed bugs bite."

Savannah Georgia Review Pic!According to Johnny, their public schools were integrated in 1963; 9 years after the historic Brown vs. Board of Education in Topeka, KS (1954). We made stops at the Beach Institute which was for Blacks (Colored) and is now in an area that is going through gentrification. We also stopped at the Ralph Gilbert Civil Rights Museum where I learned that there were no riots during the movement in the 1960's, however, the Great Savannah Boycott of Levy's (major department store), and mass meetings every Sunday at 4 PM, at different area churches proved to be more effective after 15 months of the campaign. These efforts were led by Rev. Ralph Gilbert, NAACP president and Pastor of the 1st African Baptist Church.

Savannah Georgia Review Pic!I learned also, from the museum, that Tybee Island was a dangerous place for Blacks before integration because there was only one way in and out, and that the famous (or infamous) General Sherman's headquarters was located at Madison Square. It was there that a meeting was held on Thursday January 12, 1865, with 20 Black ministers -- and other leaders -- that he promised the now famous "40 Acres and a Mule" to Blacks who supported the north during the Civil War. That promise was later redacted by his superiors who simply stated that he did not have the proper authority to make such a claim. Some call this phenomenon being hoodwinked, or bamboozled. The city dedicated its MLK (Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.) Boulevard in 1991; formerly known as West Broad Street. Johnny drove us through the Laurel Grove Cemetery where he pointed out the area for Slaves and the headstone of Mr. Westley Wallace Law; Savannah NAACP president from 1950 - 1976 and visionary who predicted the dramatic increase in land value in the lower income sections of the city. He ended a great tour by recommending a fantastic soul food restaurant called Sisters of the New South. I loved it so much that I broke from tradition and ordered dinner two nights in a row. Check out my review in an upcoming edition.

Savannah Georgia Review Pic!On my second day of exploration I headed out on my own to check out some of the sites from one of my favorite movies from 1997 "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" starring Kevin Spacey, John Cusack, and Ms. Chablis Deveau as herself "The Lady Chablis," and directed by my favorite cowboy Mr. Clint Eastwood. The plot of this murder mystery centers on a visiting city reporter's (Cusack) friendship that evolved after one of the locals was murdered and the subsequent trial of the prime suspect -- the millionaire played by Spacey. Most of the juicy scenes were filmed in and around Savannah with the Bonaventure Cemetery holding down the prime spot at the beginning and end of the movie. The most famous scene in the cemetery featured a statue of a young girl wearing a floor length dress holding a plate in each hand with her head tilted to the left with both eyes closed. This statue (known as Bird Girl) generated so much interest that it had to be moved to a local museum to protect it from souvenir hounds.

Savannah Georgia Review Pic!I also got a chance to stop by the Mercer Williams House which was the fictional home of John Kelso -- the millionaire -- played brilliantly by Mr. Spacey; southern drawl and all. The home is now a museum. Stealing quite a few of the scenes in the movie was first-time (and only time) actress Ms. Chablis Deveau who played herself; a cross dressing transvestite who actually performed at the club featured in the movie -- Club One in real life. Unfortunately she passed away on Friday September 8, 2016, at the age of 59 years old, and the management was nice enough to honor her with a permanent mural to the right of the main entrance. May she Rest in Peace. On my way back to my hotel I came across yet another filming taking place in the eclectic city of Savannah. I did a U-turn and learned that hey were filming for an upcoming British cable show. The next time I am in town I will make it a point to hang out at Club One and take one of the many tours offered of the now famous Bonaventure Cemetery, as well as stuff my face again, and again at the Sisters of the New South soul food restaurant which is now listed in the Black Pages Worldwide directory.

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