Trend Magazine Online™
Travel Review July 2017
Savannah, Georgia
By Jay Whipple
Trend Magazine Online™
Eclectic!
I have driven past the Savannah exit sign off I-95
on numerous trips to/from Miami since the late 1970's and
after joining the U.S. Army and being stationed at Ft. Bragg, NC;
which is just west of Fayetteville. I have on at least three occasions
actually stopped through very briefly twice, and the third to spend the night
with relatives of my former Army buddy1LT
Anthony Jackson (May he Rest in Peace). That night was one to remember
because we were invited to my first -- and only -- Low Country Boil. If
you have yet to experience one, and you love seafood, you should immediately
add it to your bucket list.
The Boil consists of getting one of those 30-gallon
or so steel trash cans (without trash of course), fill it water, and add
all types of seafood and sides like crabs, lobsters, shrimp, crawdads, oysters,
clams; corn-on-the-cob, new potatoes, etc...The entire can is brought to a boil
and when the host determines that all the goodies are fully cooked they drain
the water and then dump everything onto a table covered with heavy paper to
keep the foods from getting soggy. You then stand around the table and help
yourself to whatever delightful item your heart so desires until there is no
more to be consumed. It is customary to use your hands (natural forks) to pick
and eat your pleasure while washing it down with your favorite beverage -- like
beer.
I was not privy to a Savannah Low Country Boil on
this trip but did get to spend four days and three nights this time around. I
was able to get a great hotel deal by using the travel portal associated with Trend
Magazine Onlinetm. By searching it I located a room at the Sleep
Inn just off I-95 which was great because I was already traveling
that route from South Florida. My hotel was conveniently located within
walking distance of restaurants, fuel, and quick shops, as well as easy access
to highways leading into Downtown Savannah. I arrived around 10 PM
and began the process of planning my two day exploration shortly after check in
at my hotel.
I love it when a hotel is visitor friendly by providing a
kiosk chock full of area attractions brochures. I helped myself to several that
got my interest to include one advertising the Freedom
Trails Tour by Mr. Johnnie Brown who has been at it for over 20
years; according to the brochure. As one in the business I know the value
derived from a tour company with a long established track record as compared to
one of the newer ones, as such, I typically choose experience over popularity.
In addition, a good local tour is an excellent way of learning a lot in a very
short period of time and it helps you effectively plan the remainder of your
trip.
I chose to attend the last tour of the day which was at 3
PM and departing from the Savannah Visitor Center located at 301
Martin Luther King, Jr. Boulevard in Downtown. Parking was a
nightmare as I had to drive around for several minutes before finding a spot
open in the garage of a nearby hotel. I had to double time back over to the
visitor center in order to catch the last tour of the day. Fortunately, the
previous tour was delayed several minutes giving me time to catch my breath. On
our 2-hour excursion I learned that the city served as a military buffer
during the Civil War and that from 1832-1838 the railroad was a
big deal with Charleston, SC.
Our guide Johnny stated that there were no
fires during that war like Atlanta, GA, or Richmond, VA;
but there were three major fires in 1796, 1820, and 1889,
and that Yellow Fever hit in about 1853 with a lot of those folks
being buried in the Colonial Cemetery which was for "whites only." In
1893, Johnny said that the city was crippled by a major hurricane
that killed more than 2,000 people and that today's population is 58%
Black. He also explained the connection between their beautiful iconic Moss
trees and bed bugs. He said that the moss -- containing bugs -- was used to
stuff mattresses. Hence the saying "Sleep tight and don't let the bed bugs
bite."
According to Johnny, their public schools were
integrated in 1963; 9 years after the historic Brown vs. Board
of Education in Topeka, KS (1954). We made stops at the Beach
Institute which was for Blacks (Colored) and is now in an area that
is going through gentrification. We also stopped at the Ralph Gilbert Civil Rights
Museum where I learned that there were no riots during the movement in the 1960's,
however, the Great Savannah Boycott of Levy's (major department
store), and mass meetings every Sunday at 4 PM, at different area
churches proved to be more effective after 15 months of the campaign.
These efforts were led by Rev. Ralph Gilbert, NAACP president and
Pastor of the 1st African Baptist Church.
I learned also, from the museum, that Tybee Island
was a dangerous place for Blacks before integration because there was
only one way in and out, and that the famous (or infamous) General Sherman's
headquarters was located at Madison Square. It was there that a
meeting was held on Thursday January 12, 1865, with 20 Black
ministers -- and other leaders -- that he promised the now famous "40
Acres and a Mule" to Blacks who supported the north during the Civil
War. That promise was later redacted by his superiors who simply stated
that he did not have the proper authority to make such a claim. Some call this
phenomenon being hoodwinked, or bamboozled. The city dedicated its MLK
(Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.) Boulevard in 1991; formerly known
as West Broad Street. Johnny drove us through the Laurel Grove Cemetery where he pointed out the area for Slaves and the headstone of Mr. Westley Wallace Law; Savannah NAACP president from 1950 - 1976 and visionary who predicted the dramatic increase in land value in the lower income sections of the city. He ended a great tour by recommending a
fantastic soul food restaurant called Sisters
of the New South. I loved it so much that I broke from tradition and
ordered dinner two nights in a row. Check out my review in an upcoming edition.
On my second day of exploration I headed out on my own to
check out some of the sites from one of my favorite movies from 1997"Midnight
in the Garden of Good and Evil" starring Kevin Spacey, John
Cusack, and Ms. Chablis Deveau as herself "The Lady Chablis," and
directed by my favorite cowboy Mr. Clint Eastwood. The plot of this
murder mystery centers on a visiting city reporter's (Cusack) friendship that
evolved after one of the locals was murdered and the subsequent trial of the
prime suspect -- the millionaire played by Spacey. Most of the juicy
scenes were filmed in and around Savannah with the Bonaventure
Cemetery holding down the prime spot at the beginning and end of the movie.
The most famous scene in the cemetery featured a statue of a young girl wearing
a floor length dress holding a plate in each hand with her head tilted to the
left with both eyes closed. This statue (known as Bird Girl)
generated so much interest that it had to be moved to a local museum to protect
it from souvenir hounds.
I also got a chance to stop by the Mercer Williams House
which was the fictional home of John Kelso -- the millionaire -- played
brilliantly by Mr. Spacey; southern drawl and all. The home is now a museum. Stealing quite a few of the
scenes in the movie was first-time (and only time) actress Ms. Chablis
Deveau who played herself; a cross dressing transvestite who actually
performed at the club featured in the movie -- Club One in real life.
Unfortunately she passed away on Friday September 8, 2016, at the
age of 59 years old, and the management was nice enough to honor her
with a permanent mural to the right of the main entrance. May she Rest in
Peace. On my way back to my hotel I came across yet another filming taking place in the eclectic city of Savannah. I did a U-turn and learned that hey were filming for an upcoming British cable show. The next time I am in town I will make it a point to hang out at Club
One and take one of the many tours offered of the now famous Bonaventure
Cemetery, as well as stuff my face again, and again at the Sisters of
the New South soul food restaurant which is now listed in the Black
Pages Worldwide directory.